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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. But, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has left the family totally astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” states the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small restaurant securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary achievement.